Introduction
How exciting, you got your hands on a Framework Laptop 13 DIY Edition! This guide will walk you through each step from unboxing to powering on your laptop so you can start using it right away. As with all of our guides, make sure you read the directions in each step and view each image first.
Please note this guide is for the Framework Laptop 13 (13th Gen Intel Core) only, if you are setting up a 11th or 12th Gen Intel Core Laptop please refer to this guide instead.
After finishing the Quick Start Guide, if you’re installing Windows, check out our Windows 11 Installation Guide and don’t forget to install the Framework Laptop Driver Bundle. You can also check out our Linux compatibility page for the distros that work great on the Framework Laptop.
If you have questions or run into any issues, check out the Support pages.
Tools
Parts
No parts specified.
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The first step is to open the box and identify the contents, the exact contents will vary depending on how you configured your Laptop, but inside the box you will find:
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Bezel
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Input Cover
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Framework Laptop 13
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Power Adapter
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Expansion Cards
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Storage, Memory, any additional Expansion Cards and importantly the Framework Screwdriver!
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Note that depending on the retail packaging for Memory , this may be located underneath the Power Adapter instead.
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Start by unpacking the box containing your Framework Screwdriver, Memory and Storage, these are all together in the box found underneath the Laptop.
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You may also want to remove the Expansion Cards from their boxes at this stage too!
Note to Framework & users just beginning this set-up adventure:
If you’re like me, and you don’t do this sort of thing frequently, then you don’t have USB drives laying around just waiting to be used. Before you get started, make sure you purchase a USB drive that has at least 8 GB of free space. It will be important to have one the laptop is assembled and you get to the part of installing your OS.
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Open the Laptop as pictured and you will find a clear protective cover as pictured, this can simply be lifted off and set aside.
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This protective cover is made of post-consumer recycled PET and is highly recyclable. We recommend this can be disposed of with other household plastic recycling.
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There are black mylar sheets covering the memory slots. These can be gently bent up to insert your memory modules.
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Insert the Memory module into the Mainboard by aligning the notch on the Memory module with the notch on the socket.
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Make sure that the memory is fully inserted before proceeding.
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Once the module is fully inserted, it will rise up at a 20-degree angle. Gently press it down towards the Mainboard until the clips located at the top and bottom of the receptacle snap into place.
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If you are using one Memory module, place it in the socket that is labelled “Channel 0."
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The first boot after installing a new Memory module will take longer than normal, as the system prepares itself for the new module.
For channel 1, the memory expansion slot on the left, is the memory card supposed to be upside down, that is, with the "crucial" label face down, as opposed to face up as is shown in video? The video only demonstrates installing in channel 0. The only way to have the slots align for channel 1 is if the "crucial" label is face down.
(see the red arrows in the third image)
There is no third image... or any image actually...
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Using the T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver, unscrew the fastener that is used to secure the Storage module.
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Align the notch on the Storage module with the notch on the socket and slide the module into the Mainboard.
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Once properly inserted the module will rise up at a 20-degree angle.
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Using one finger gently hold the Storage module down to the Mainboard and use your other hand to screw in the fastener using the T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver.
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Be sure to not over-tighten the fastener.
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Gently place the Input Cover keyboard side down on the Bottom Cover as indicated on the image. The cover should be about an inch and a half away from the bottom of the Mainboard so that you can comfortably install the Touchpad Cable.
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Note: The orientation of the Input Cover matters. Study the first image in this step to ensure you are properly attaching the cover.
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Locate the loop on the end of the Touchpad Cable and insert your finger into it.
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Using slight force, connect the Touchpad Cable by aligning it to the socket on Mainboard. You should hear it click into place once properly connected.
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Before closing up the laptop, make sure that the Touchpad end of the Touchpad Cable is fully seated in the receptacle.
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The cable should be inserted far enough that the white line almost touches the receptacle.
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If it is not inserted far enough, you'll need to flip up the black latch on the other side of the connector, slide the cable in further, and then close the black latch again.
@abc the green arrow indicates the direction (misleadingly) to open the black latch towards left. I think framework meant to show the "force" from right to left but from underneath the latch. The arrow should rather point upwards imho.
@pyoorkate the dsign hasn´t changed. You`re confusing the touch pad SIDE with the touchpad CABLE ends.
The touchpad side (end) came already assembled so no need to do anything. The white line is there just hard to spot when the side is already properly fitted :)
It appears the design of this component has changed, there's now a mylar sheet over the top, and no white line to check.
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Once the Touchpad cable is secured to the Mainboard, flip the Input Cover over the Bottom Cover so that the keyboard is facing up and attach it to the Bottom Cover by aligning the top and bottom edges of both covers.
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Tip: The covers are magnetic and should fit into one another easily. If you feel any resistance simply lift the Input Cover up and try again.
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Note that the Input Cover will not sit entirely flat until the bottom fasteners are tightened. The bottom right corner is slightly lifted to make it easy to remove the Input Cover.
If the keyboard seems a bit loose, don't worry; it will be tightened to the laptop in the next step.
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If installing a new Bezel, remove the liner pieces on the bottom of the Bezel to expose the adhesive.
My bezel seemed to install well but the lower left hand corner ended up becoming quite stuck and warped for some reason (perhaps how a particular cable was positioned near the microphone).
It jammed and was almost impossible to open. I have had to detach the lower hinge of the bezel for now and will need a replacement.
Not the best experience.
Also had issues with the left corner of the bezel. What happened was I was trying to route the left corner cable below the hinge! That was stupid of me, but it seemed like the appropriate place for the cable to go without much knowledge of laptop bezels. I did fully read and follow the guide, and had the right cable properly fitted; but for some reason it seemed the left cable was supposed to fit under the hinge.
For anyone who might run into the same problem like I did, here is a picture of how the left cable is supposed to be properly seated:
Also, to be fair, the cable was already a bit seated under the hinge when I first opened the laptop, which led me to assume that was how it was supposed to be.
the guide says "the ezel" instead of "the bezel" at the end of the 4th bullet point.
For me this was really simple and took about 30 seconds.
installed the bezel carefully, or so i thought, when i was finished closed the lid (top cover still off) and the captive screws levered the screen which caused the hinge cover at the bottom of the bezel to just shear off - awesome...i had to re-separate the bezel completely and install from the hinge cover first and then tip the laptop so the captive screws didn't catch in order to check the function again, working now but i've also got half a hinge cover separated from the bezel. Kind of took the shine off my laptop i've been waiting 4 months for
Surprisingly, the bezel was by far the hardest item to install for me. I found that it's easier if done without the top cover, however, be very careful to keep the screws fully seated in when moving the hinge - they can lodge themselves in the wrong spot and cause damage otherwise. This was also pointed out in a comment below, but it should really be a warning at the top of each guide.
As many have noted, the difficult part is getting the lower corners to sit flush. After a lot of tries the best technique I found is:
- release tension from the cables by taking them out from some of their holding brackets
- route them so that, with the laptop sitting flat and horizontal, their highest point is no higher than the hinge's. The picture in the guide shows how to do that - the hinge edges are skinnier than the rest, and you're trying to wrap around that tiny bit of space that they leave.
Even then it's not perfect and my bottom right corner wants to sit a hair higher than the others.
I also had an issue when placing the bottom left of the bezel onto the screen. A cable connecting to the display was causing the the bezel to just not sit flush once it was closed. If you opened it with the cable misaligned it would cause the bottom left side of the bezel to jut out and really look like it would snap. If this guide could provide a picture on how the wiring of the bottom left should look it would be super helpful.
I managed to figure out how to position it after some troubleshooting, I just removed the bezel and kept closing the lid with the cable in a new spot. When the cable didn't pop out the back I tried it with the bezel installed, then closed the lid, then checked the back of the casing. I still noticed the bezel wasn't flush but after just pushing it up against the case it managed to snap into position and now seems to work fine after opening/closing the lid.
If the new bezel being aligned was not black it would more clearly demonstrate how to attach the new bezel.
I incurred two problems.
When installing my new purple bezel, I removed the left adhesive completely from the bottom of the Bezel when removing the liner piece. I was able to REapply it as it was sticky both sides.
I had more issues with the left hinge, in fact it snapped when I initially closed it. I was terrified but was thankfully able to dislodge it. I bloody well hope this will not effect the performance.
Very poor quality indeed, cheap flimsy plastic.
I did not trust myself to continue setting up my Framework Laptop 13 (13th Gen Intel Core) and put it away until I had more confidence.
The bezel is cheap plastic and will break easy… if it happens to break it will start to cause issues. Will update with a pic, bezel definitely needs to be redesigned or done already assembled.
Two captive screws on the bottom of the laptop, near hinges, can mess with opening the screen fully if they are extended too far. Try to push them up (towards the motherboard) to avoid interference. In my case they even left a dent on the inner edge of the screen metal lid.
On your picture, you already have installed the keyboard, which would be the next step in the process. Do the screws still stick out without the keyboard installed?
Same issue here, it somehow fixed itself after pressing the bezel a bit. It does click when I open the lid, though. I think the wire might need some tape?
The bottom right corner of my bezel is not fully pressed down along the display. It's only 1 or 2 mm raised, but it is noticeable when looking at the display from a side view.
Do not be alarmed if this happens to you as it seems others have experienced something similar based on posts in the community. I spent way too long repeatedly taking off and placing off the bezel to try and resolve it. All other edges of the bezel lay perfectly.
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Open the Framework Laptop 180 degrees to attach the Bezel.
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Starting with the bottom of the Bezel which covers the hinges and cables, align the corners of the Bezel to the display and place it down. The Bezel is attached by magnets and should easily click into place.
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We recommend feeling along each edge of the Bezel to make sure it is seated correctly before proceeding, if it doesn't seem to be sitting flush, lift it back up and try lowering it into place again.
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Do not try to install the Bezel without first opening the Laptop fully, doing so could damage the Bezel and potentially the Display.
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If the bottom of the Bezel doesn't seem to fit, lift it back off and check that the cables are seated correctly on both sides. If the Bezel doesn't seem to fit at all, please contact support and do not force it into place.
At the left hinge, the cable seems to belong on the side closer to the display. Mine was on the opposite side, causing the bezel not to fit well, and after closing and reopening the lid, the bezel tore in this corner. It took a lot of wiggling and adjusting to free the bezel and move the cable to its correct position before the lid could be closed and opened easily.
"Starting with the bottom of the Bezel which covers the hinges and cables, align the corners of the Bezel to the display and place it down. The Bezel is attached by magnets and should easily click into place."
But the "bottom of the Bezel which covers the hinges and cables" is the bent/angled, part with the "framework" logo on it, no?
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Close the Framework Laptop and turn it upside down to reveal the empty Expansion Card bays and fasteners on the Bottom Cover.
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Using the T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver, tighten all 5 fasteners.
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Be sure to not over-tighten the fasteners.
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Insert the Expansion Cards of your choice into any of the empty bays.
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The text, logo, and QR code on the Expansion Card must be facing down (facing the laptop). Slide the Expansion card into the bay. Using two or more fingers push the card until into the bay until it clicks.
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You will have to use a slight amount of force to ensure proper installation of the Expansion Cards.
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Plug your power cable into the USB-C Expansion Card.
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Open the lid on your Framework Laptop and press the power button.
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Note that your first boot will take a while before the logo comes up on screen as the system does memory training. The more memory you've installed, the longer this could take (on the order of a minute or two with 64GB!)
It took me 4 tries to get it to boot.
The first time, I tried without plugging in the power cord. I guess that is necessary, and you do say to do it, but a warning would help.
I saw a light between the expansion ports light up when I plugged in the power cord. The light on the other side of the laptop did not light up.
Even then, pressing the power button didn't do anything.
After waiting 2 minutes each time, I started paying closer attention to the light around the power button itself. At first I thought it would only momentarily flash when I turned it on. But now I'm guessing that by holding the button down for a slightly longer fraction of a second, I was actually turning it off or something.
Finally, after noticing that the little lights between the expansion ports were on on both sides of the laptop, I tried pressing again, this time for a shorter time, and the light around the power button stayed on this time. Yay!
I suggest being much more clear about the indications we should look for.
This comment was a lifesaver! Had the same issue, thanks!
Thank you Neal McBurnett, I had the exact same issue you described. I completely reassembled the laptop and followed each step again and then I saw your post. You made my day. Thanks.
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When I turned my new laptop on for the first time, I received an error message saying boot device not found and boot failed. Framework Support said this occurred because I hadn't yet created a bootable USB disk using the Windows Media Creation tool, which is covered in the next step. I think there is an issue with this guide in that step 12 incorrectly suggests you will be able to boot up before completing step 13.
My left-side expansion cards didn't work initially; I had to use the right side both for the initial charge (which enables the battery) and for the USB stick (to install Windows). Once I'd installed Windows and the Framework driver package, all my expansion cards were working. I suspect the right-side cards are native and the left side require drivers to work.
I wasn't told that I needed a USB c expansion card.. I'm just going to have to unplug one of my expansion cards which is pretty much useless now
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Find the instructions for installing Windows 11 here.
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If you use Rufus, Ventoy, or other tools instead to create the installer, you'll need to follow the steps in this article, otherwise you will run into an error during installation around netwtw10.sys.
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The Framework Laptop is designed to work great with Linux too. Check out our Linux compatibility page for distros we recommend, like:
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Fedora 38- Essentially fully functional out of the box.
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Ubuntu 22.04 LTS - Essentially fully functional out of the box.
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If you're using Windows, you'll also need to install the latest Framework Laptop Driver Bundle.
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- To purchase a Framework Laptop visit the Framework website
- Want to learn more about the Framework Laptop? Take a look at our blog
- If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to reach out to Framework Support
- To purchase a Framework Laptop visit the Framework website
- Want to learn more about the Framework Laptop? Take a look at our blog
- If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to reach out to Framework Support
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Double check that note about the RAM being under the power supply. Wish they would put a note in the box about it...
Tanner Davis - Reply
Note to Framework & users just beginning this set-up adventure:
If you’re like me, and you don’t do this sort of thing frequently, then you don’t have USB drives laying around just waiting to be used. Before you get started, make sure you purchase a USB drive that has at least 8 GB of free space. It will be important to have one the laptop is assembled and you get to the part of installing your OS.
Eclectic - Reply