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Initial Public Release

Minor Versionm

by Iroh

    • Before beginning, make sure to shut down your Framework Laptop.

    • If the system is still powered on, you will see the chassis intrusion lights flashing red and blue when the Touchpad and Input Modules are removed.

    • To remove the Expansion Cards, first turn the Framework Laptop 16 over and open the Expansion Card Latches.

    • With the latches open the Expansion Cards should slide right out.

    • If the latches are open and the cards feel stuck, you can use the spudger end of your Framework Screwdriver to push them out.

    • In order to remove the Input Modules from the Framework Laptop 16, begin by opening the Input Deck Latches on each side of the Laptop.

    • When the latches are open you can see the red printed on the latch.

    Perhaps a dumb question, but what are the initial conditions? i.e. Should my laptop be powered off, but still plugged in, before starting this?

    Jonathan P Cox - Resolved on Release Reply

    As far as I know, Framework recommends powering off the laptop before opening it. As far as keeping it plugged in, I would not recommend that as it may be an electrical hazard.

    Soni -

    • To remove the Touchpad Spacers, slide them down and then they will lift away easily.

    • If there is resistance, make sure that the Input Deck Latches are open (see previous step).

    • After removing the Spacers, the Touchpad module can be removed in the same way. Gently slide it downwards from both sides and then lift away as shown.

    • To remove the Keyboard lift from the bottom using the pull tabs, and once lifted up the Keyboard module should lift out without resistance.

    • If your pull tabs are no longer attached, you can carefully use the spudger side of the Framework Screwdriver to lift the module away.

    • Remove your Input Modules or Spacers in the same way as the Keyboard, lifting from the bottom using the pull tabs as shown.

    You will need to remove the module from the Expansion Bay to later remove the Ventilation Plate in step 10, which instructions are missing from this guide. Refer to the "Install Expansion Shell" and "Install Graphics Module (dGPU)" guides for instructions on removing the module from the Expansion Bay. It is better to remove the module from the Expansion Bay now, as the guides require you to close your laptop, and it is better done when the mid-plate is still installed and fastened, than when the screws are loose, or the mid-plate removed, IMHO.

    Ádám Juhász - Open Reply

    IMPORTANT: This comment meant for the Fingerprint Reader guide ONLY. I didn't realize at the time, that leaving a comment for a step appears across ALL GUIDES WITH THE SAME STEP.

    Ádám Juhász -

    • Depending on if you have the Expansion Bay Shell or Graphics Module installed, you will have to remove it first. Follow the guide below to remove the specific module you have installed. Once removed, come back to this guide and continue to the next step.

    • To remove the "Expansion Bay Shell" from your Framework 16, please follow this guide: Remove Expansion Bay Shell

    • To remove the "Graphics Module" from your Framework 16, please follow this guide: Remove Graphics Module

    Updated comment: @liam, before that you need to remove the mid-plate. @iroh, any chance you can add mid-plate step?

    Patrick M. - Open Reply

    @liam , I agree, but even before that you need to remove the mid-plate. @iroh , any chance you can add mid-plate and battery removal steps?

    Patrick M. - Open Reply

    Before the next step you should probably remove the battery

    Liam - Open Reply

    • This cable is labeled with the Number 1 to indicate that it should be disconnected before loosening the Mid Plate Fasteners.

    • It is important to disconnect this cable before removing the Mid Plate as leaving it attached could damage the cable.

    • Using the T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver unscrew the 16 captive fasteners attaching the Mid Plate to the Bottom Cover. These are numbered from 2-17 (since the Mid Plate Cable is number 1)

    • These fasteners are captive, meaning they will remain attached to the Mid Plate when fully loosened.

    • Do not use powered tools for this step as this risks damage to the fasteners, as with all fasteners in the Framework Laptop 16 these can be easily loosened using the included Framework Screwdriver

    • Carefully lift the Mid Plate away from the Bottom Cover and set it aside.

    • If the Mid Plate seems stuck, check the fasteners are all loosened, there should be little resistance.

    There is a step missing below this one. You need to remove the expansion bay first before removing the ventilation plate (and preferably before disconnecting the fingerprint reader).

    GwynBleidD - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Using the spudger side of your Framework Screwdriver, flip open the latch securing the Fingerprint Reader cable in place.

    • Using the pull tab, gently pull the Fingerprint Reader cable out of the socket on the Mainboard.

    • Since the Ventilation Plate is held in place by the Mid Plate and the module installed in the Expansion Bay, with both of these removed, you can now lift it away from the Bottom Cover.

    • As you lift the Ventilation Plate away, peel the light adhesive holding the Fingerprint Reader Cable onto the Bottom Cover as shown.

    Step 7 to 11 from the Expansion Bay Shell Cover should be done before this step 10.

    It was skipped in this guide.

    Antoine Demblon - Open Reply

    You may want to remove Expansion Bay Shell to get easier access to the plate.

    Sven-Erik Petermann - Open Reply

    In the video, top corner covers with framework logo are missing, the plate is behind these corners, not sure how to remove those.

    Sven-Erik Petermann - Open Reply

    I had to use a spudger to gently wedge the Ventilation Plate from the corner caps (with the Framework logo) and the back of the body. Clips are used to connect the Ventilation Plate to the body.

    Looks like it was skipped in this guide.

    Mark - Open Reply

    • Loosen the 3 fasteners, note that these are captive fasteners that will remain attached to the Battery.

    • Lift the pull tab up to disconnect the Battery then lift it out to remove it from the Bottom Cover.

    • Remove the fasteners from both the left and right Speakers and set them aside.

    • Starting from one side, gently pull the one Speaker directly up to remove it.

    • Working from one speaker to the other, unroute the cable from the Bottom Cover.

    • The cable runs through black rubber guides as well as hooking under some metal parts of the Bottom cover. There should be little resistance when freeing the cables from the guides.

    • When you reach the other side, lift the other Speaker up to remove the entire Speaker kit from the Bottom Cover.

    • At the top of the Mainboard are three connectors to remove, from right to left these are the eDP (Display) cable, the Webcam Cable and the WiFi.

    • Disconnect the eDP and Webcam cables by pulling directly up on the pull tabs and unroute the cables slightly from their guides as shown to keep them out of the way of the Mainboard.

    • Remove the WiFi Bracket using the Torx T5 bit on your Framework Screwdriver and remove the WiFi Card as shown.

    • We recommend for this guide to keep the WiFi Module attached to the antenna cables as these can be difficult to reattach.

    • Using the Torx T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver remove the six fasteners shown.

    • Note that one of the fasteners is under the Interposer Door.

    • Lifting from the edges of the board and heatpipes as shown lift the Mainboard out of the Bottom Cover as shown.

    • There should be little resistance so if the Mainboard feels stuck, make sure all six fasteners were removed in the previous step.

    and a warning that the screen now weighs more than the empty chassis, and will tip backwards over if not supported.

    Christopher Ryba - Open Reply

    There should be a step to remove RTC battery (if one is installed).

    Josip Medved - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Rest the device on the Top Cover. This way the Display/ Top Cover will not fall over and become damaged when unscrewing the Bottom Cover.

    • Unscrew 3 of the 4 screws on each side (6 total) attaching the Hinge to the Bottom Cover.

    • These screws are not captive, so make sure you place them in a safe place and do not lose them.

    • With these 6 screws removed, place your hand under the Bottom Cover supporting it; and remove the final screw on each side of the Hinge.

    • The Bottom Cover should now be free.

    • Unroute Webcam, Display, and WiFi cables from the bottom cover.

    • Remember how they are routed as you will route them this same way in the new Bottom Cover.

    • Rest the device on the Top Cover. This way the Display/ Top Cover will not fall over and become damaged when screwing in the Bottom Cover.

    • Screw in all 8 screws going back and forth between each Hinge.

    • This makes sure the load is spread evenly between each.

  1. Route the Black Antenna Cable through the left hinge; placing it in the front of the guided channel.
    • Route the Black Antenna Cable through the left hinge; placing it in the front of the guided channel.

  2. Route the White Antenna Cable through the right hinge; placing it in the front guided channel.
    • Route the White Antenna Cable through the right hinge; placing it in the front guided channel.

  3. Route the Webcam Cable through the right hinge; placing it at the back of the guided channel.
    • Route the Webcam Cable through the right hinge; placing it at the back of the guided channel.

  4. Route the eDP Cable (Display) from the Display through the left hinge placing it in the rear guided channel.
    • Route the eDP Cable (Display) from the Display through the left hinge placing it in the rear guided channel.

    Note that there is adhesive that needs to be exposed in three locations on the replacement cable.

    Mark - Open Reply

    • Male sure that all cables (Speaker, WiFi, eDP, Webcam) are out of the way before installing the Mainboard.

    • Holding the Mainboard from the edges of the board and the heatpipes as shown, lower it into the Bottom Cover.

    • Using the Torx T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver install the six Mainboard fasteners, noting that one of them is under the Interposer Door.

    • Starting from left to right install the WiFi Module, the Webcam cable and the eDP cable.

    • Plug in the WiFi Module, route the antenna cables through the channel above the Mainboard and around the metal post on the Mainboard as shown, and then secure the WiFi Bracket using the Torx T5 bit on your Framework Screwdriver.

    • Connect the eDP and Webcam cables by lining them up with the socket on the Mainboard and pushing gently down.

    Rick here with the save. Thanks!

    Nicholas Bettencourt - Resolved on Release Reply

    There's a problem with you WiFi card instructions.

    When removing it from the old mainboard, there is no instruction to discard the plasic cover.

    The new mainboard has it's own white plasic cover.

    After wondering why I couldn't re install the WiFi and examining the fuzzy (when shown full screen) video above, I noticed that my problem is that I now have 2 white plastic WiFi covers and I have to discard the old one in order to install it on the new mainboard.

    Someone might want to point that out so that others don't end up where I was.

    (also higher res videos would be a big help)

    rik - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Just like removing the Speakers, starting from one side, place the speaker as shown and push it down into place.

    • Working from one speaker to the other, route the cable into the guides in the Bottom Cover.

    • The cable runs through black rubber guides as well as hooking under some metal parts of the Bottom cover. Take your time here to make sure the cable is seated in each rubber guide and under each hook.

    • When you reach the other side, place the other speaker into place and push down as shown.

    • Using the Torx T5 bit on the Framework Screwdriver, tighten the two fasteners on each side to secure the speakers in place

    Confirmation from Framework Support:

    M1.4

    T5

    Length: 1.4mm

    Head OD: 4.5mm

    Head Thickness: 0.6mm

    Simon Porter - Open Reply

    Can you confirm the exact size of screws needed in this step?

    Simon Porter - Open Reply

    • Place the Ventilation Plate into place as shown, the holes for fasteners will align with the bottom cover.

    • Gently press down the Finger Print Reader cable to stick it to the Bottom Cover.

    Also remember to flip up the retaining tab on the new motherboard, or you won't be able to insert the fingerprint reader cable

    Neal Tibrewala - Open Reply

    In my case, the adhesive is entirely on the old cable, or rather what is left on the bottom case is not sufficient to keep the cable to stick.

    Ádám Juhász - Open Reply

    The holes on the ventilation plate should line up with the holes on the motherboard which should line up with the hold underneath the mainboard. Otherwise, when it is time to install the midplate, the screw will not engage with the threads underneath.

    Jeff H Silverman - Resolved on Release Reply

    • With the latch on the Mainboard open, connect the Fingerprint Reader cable to the Mainboard as shown.

    • This is quite a small connector so you may find it easiest to use the tab on the cable to push the cable into place.

    • Once fully inserted, close the latch on the Mainboard to secure the cable in place.

    I find it difficult to connect the cable straight while it is sticking to the chassis, so I connect it first, and then stick it to the adhesive, but then the cable will no longer be flush with the bottom chassis, like it was shown in the previous step.

    Ádám Juhász - Open Reply

    This was incredibly difficult. I wish there were higher res pictures showing how the bits of this intricate mechanism work -- took me five minutes just to figure out where exactly to insert the cable. Crossing my fingers and hoping I got it right.

    Daniel - Resolved on Release Reply

    I wish I has read that before I started. I think I have damaged the cable (I am sending a picture to support) and the machine will not power on.

    Jeff H Silverman - Resolved on Release Reply

    I found this to be impossible, given my hands and eyesight. My solution was to detach the cable from the vent plate. and install the cable on the mainboard before installing the mainboard in the chassis. (so before step 27). This allowed me to connection the reader cable with out having to navigate the bend, and the plastic cover.

    Vincent Hanchon - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Depending on if you have the Expansion Bay Shell or Graphics Module, you will have to install it first. Follow the guide below to install the specific module you have. Once installed, come back to this guide and continue to the next step.

    • To install the "Expansion Bay Shell" from your Framework 16, please follow this guide: Install Expansion Bay Shell

    • To install the "Graphics Module" from your Framework 16, please follow this guide: Install Graphics Module (dGPU)

    • Lower the Battery into place, first aligning the bottom of Battery in the bottom cover as shown, then push down gently to attach the connector to the Mainboard.

    • Tighten the 3 captive fasteners to hold the Battery in place.

    • Place the Mid Plate onto the system, aligning the holes in the Mid Plate with the two guide posts.

    • These posts are on the left side and the right side, immediately above the speakers on both sides.

    • Take extra time to make sure it's sitting level/ flush.

    I didn't notice the thermal pad until it started 'leaking' into one of the expansion ports. It had migrated down its channel in the mid plate because I store my laptop left side down in my backpack...

    Andrew Pegram - Open Reply

    Before this step there should be a note to reinstall RTC battery (if one was there before).

    Josip Medved - Resolved on Release Reply

    If you plug a USB keyboard in, you can go into the BIOS and navigate around and check it is working before replacing the midplate.

    James - Resolved on Release Reply

    Note there is a thermal pad for the SSD on the bottom of the mid-plate. Mine had a blue plastic film still in place that needed to be removed before re-installing the mid-plate.

    Matthew Cross - Resolved on Release Reply

    I also failed to remove the blue film from the thermal pad for the primary SSD. A subsequent removal of the mid plate pulled the thermal pad away from the mid plate which is when I noticed it.

    Matthew Sanabria -

    Same for me, had to remove the blue plastic from the bottom of the midplate as well as below the secondary ssd

    NAIR ALIBHAY -

    • Using the pull tab, gently press the Mid Plate connector down to connect it to the Mainboard.

    • Carefully align, then firmly press in the mid plate connector cable.

    FYI. After using the computer for a while, this connection can start to loosen. This causes the trackpad and keyboard to randomly disconnect. If it gets bad enough that the computer no longer detects either during boot, you will be prompted to reseat this connection.

    Dean Murry - Open Reply

    Connection doesn’t give much feedback, it just kind of mushes itself in. It’s best to press in the middle of the orange strip and the pull tab, first near the bottom then near the top. Give a light tug on the pull tab to see if you encounter any resistance. If you do, it’s in!

    Anthony - Resolved on Release Reply

    It's tricky to tell if I've done this correctly. It seems to be firmly in place however, even though there's a plastic bit (not the tab) that still rocks around.

    Bernie Maier - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Using the T5 bit in the Framework Screwdriver tighten the Mid Plate fasteners.

    • Before gently tightening the screws, double check that the mid plate is aligned correctly as shown in previous step.

    • These fasteners are labelled 2-17 (since the Mid Plate cable is number 1) and should be tightened in order, starting with 2 and ending with 17.

    • Do not overtighten these fasteners, and we recommend against the use of powered tools for these or any other fasteners on the Framework Laptop 16.

    Instructions to secure the midplate cable are missing

    hgrutter@lift-it.nl - Resolved on Release Reply

    The deck should lay flat. Pay attention to any bulges at this point, which can be caused by thicker heatsinks attached to your SSD or RAM module.

    Chaim Halbert - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Next install, two Spacer Modules, an LED Matrix, a Numpad, an RGB Macropad, or whichever other combination of two Small or one Medium sized Input Module you have.

    • Slide these in at an angle and lower into place, the same way the Keyboard was installed.

    • Whichever Input modules you chose to install, you should have no empty spaces in the top row before proceeding to the next step.

    Looks like steps 24 and 25 are reversed

    Richard Ciavarra - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Please see our guide here on possible Input Module configurations.

    • Holding from the pull tabs at the bottom of the Keyboard module, line it up with the dashed guide lines printed on the Mid Plate. Note that you can align a Keyboard so that it is either along the left edge, the right edge, or centered. With the Keyboard held at a 20 degree angle, slide it up into place.

    • The notches along the top of the Keyboard will fit into the corresponding alignment guides under the Ventilation Plate.

    • Lower the Keyboard gently into place, it should snap in place magnetically and sit flat.

    • Ensure that the pins in the Mid Plate to the left and right of the Input Module Connector align into the corresponding holes in the Keyboard module.

    • Place the Touchpad Module flat, slightly below the Keyboard as shown.

    • Like the Keyboard, you can confirm it is properly aligned by lining it up to the dashed lines on the Mid Plate.

    • Applying gentle downward pressure to keep the Touchpad module flat, slide it up into place.

    • Remember that the Input Deck Latches should still be open at this point, otherwise the Touchpad Module won't slide on.

    • The Touchpad Module can be installed either directly below the Keyboard or offset by one space to the right. For example, the Keyboard can have the Touchpad below it, or the Keyboard can be left-aligned while the Touchpad is centered.

    I had to gently push down the keyboard module for the touchpad to correctly slide up to meet it.

    Will Stott - Open Reply

    I had issues getting the touchpad module to slide all the way up so it was flush with it's spacers. What I figured out was gently place your hands flat on each side and give even downward pressure while sliding the touchpad module latterly up to the keyboard and this got it flush with the touchpad spacers.

    Dan Wehner - Resolved on Release Reply

    I need help the mouse pad is not working and setting this laptop I have to use the keyboard /:

    Cephas - Resolved on Release Reply

    I am experiencing a significant edge between the touchpad module and spacers. I realize the touchpad should be sitting above the keyboard, but the upper corners of the touchpad module sit sharp up above the spacers. Has anyone experienced this? Any solutions to get the plates to sit flush?

    I tried removing the keyboard, and the upper corners of the touchpad module sit slightly lower, but still are not flush with the spacers.

    Michael - Resolved on Release Reply

    I think so. Happens with the Touch Modules Spacers too. A bit unsatisfying, but I can live with it.

    Matias Fernandez - Resolved on Release Reply

    This is replying to the comment by @crippledlord. For some reason it does not let me delete it.

    Matias Fernandez -

    I tried to get "Keyboard... left-aligned while the Touchpad .. centered.” (with numpad on right) but this wouldn't work. I also didn't read the "The Touchpad Module can be installed either directly below the Keyboard..." note too clearly... I think it should have a warning similar to the fasteners. I went down a rabbit hole of troubleshooting. I used Possible Input Module combinations on Framework Laptop 16 and later My touchpad isn't working because I inadvertently triggered a device issue during my troubleshooting requiring the "disable/enable the touchpad in Device Manager" process.

    Trevor Textor - Resolved on Release Reply

    @crippledlord Same here. I tried multiple times to get the touchpad module flush but it always ends up just a tad above the keyboard. Everything else is flush. Could be better but not something hinders the use.

    Fisherman - Resolved on Release Reply

    I think the same goes to the right. I wanted the keys modules to the left and track all the way to the right. I can only get one space over.

    Raju Rayavarapu - Resolved on Release Reply

    It appears that the trackpad module can not be mounted any further left than the keyboard. i.e I wanted the keyboard all the way to the right and the num pad all the way to the left, but the track pad won't fit anywhere other than directly below the keyboard module.

    Jonathan P Cox - Resolved on Release Reply

    Should the edge of the edge of the touchpad module stick above the keyboard slightly? It's not sharp, but is noticable.

    Tonyromo1988 - Resolved on Release Reply

    @crippledlord I think so. Happens with the Touch Modules Spacers too. A bit unsatisfying, but I can live with it.

    Matias Fernandez -

    • Just like installing the Touchpad module, place the Touchpad Spacers flat on the Input Deck, slightly below the Keyboard or Spacers above.

    • Applying gentle pressure, slide the Touch Module Spacers into place.

    • With the Touchpad Module Spacers installed there should now be no empty spaces on the Input Deck.

    unfortunately the touchpad only fits in the middle.

    The transitions from touchpad to spacers are clearly visible and tactile edges.

    you can press both touchpad module and spacers. Doesn't feel firm.

    I miss an overlap between spacers and touchpad to accommodate this

    Marout Yasuo Sluijter-Borms - Open Reply

    Unfortunately, my spacers on the right and left of the touchpad are floating a bit. There is so much play that the touchpad has a noticeable edge, meaning the spacer and touchpad are not flush. I have gently tightened all of the screws underneath. Any idea how to fix this?

    de_fo - Resolved on Release Reply

    I am experiencing a significant edge between the touchpad module and spacers. I realize the touchpad should be sitting above the keyboard, but the upper corners of the touchpad module sit sharp up above the spacers. Has anyone experienced this? Any solutions to get the plates to sit flush?

    I tried removing the keyboard, and the upper corners of the touchpad module sit slightly lower, but still are not flush with the spacers.

    Michael - Resolved on Release Reply

    If the spacers don't seem to fit properly, check that you've tightened the underlying Mid Plate screws enough, particularly numbers 16 and 17.

    George Pearson - Resolved on Release Reply

    • Once all Input Modules are installed, close both Input Deck Latches to secure them in place.

    It might be worth mentioning, when installing the M2 SSD, if you didn't have one installed, you need to remove the blue film GENTLY! Underneath the blue film is a pasty gray matter which I accidentally scrapped up a bit. I was peeling the blue film off really gently too, from what I had read and still, I f**ked it up!

    Mike Laurel - Resolved on Release Reply

    don't forget to replace the expansion cards :) (Step 4)

    Leopold von Seckendorff - Resolved on Release Reply

    At this point or earlier, if you have both a graphics card and expansion bay in your order you might wonder what the L shaped extra part is and where it goes. My graphics module came installed and there was an L shaped interposer left in the box (labeled FRAKHNC PA1403200JM). That part is only used if you swap out the graphics card for the expansion bay, it's not needed if your graphics module is pre-installed.

    Hope - Resolved on Release Reply

Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Iroh

Member since: 6/7/24

72 Guides authored

Team

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One Comment

I had bought a FW16 with a bad bottom cover and had to get it RMA'd. The process, though difficult and tedious, was very smooth, and I had little to no issues afterward.

Thereel RTM - Open Reply

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